I just finished my Zoom65 V2 with kailh box jades and cheap Amazon caps. The sound is ok but I want something “deeper” and louder from the alpha keys. What do y’all suggest? Pulling out the foam in the bottom of the case and underside of the PCB definitely helped. I’ve done the tape mod and plan to do the holee mod when I open it up again.

    • UniversalFlamingo@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      5·
      1 year ago

      Thank you! Gold / yellow is hard to get right. Here is the Amazon link: Black and Gold Futuristic keycaps PBT Injection molding 148 Keys Ball Cap CSA Height Customized Personality Adapt to 61/64/68/71/82/84/87/96/98/104/108 Key Positions https://a.co/d/hqDXYY0 (I had to steal the Mac keys from my Keychron.)

  • cedled@kbin.social
    3·
    1 year ago

    If you’re OK with linears for the alpha keys, Gateron Milky Blacks have a nice deep sound.

  • bricks@lemmy.worldEnglish
    2·
    1 year ago

    So O-Rings are notoriously for cutting the noise on Cherry Blues, but we put 0.2mm O-Rings on my wife’s keyboard, and it accomplished EXACTLY what you’re looking for.

    Massive pain to install, but cheap, and “deeper”.

      • wowthatsawful@lemm.eeEnglish
        2·
        1 year ago

        you cover both sides of your pcb with press n seal. I guess it’s kinda like tape mod but it sounds way deeper and more poppy to me.

        • humanplayer2@lemmy.mlEnglish
          2·
          1 year ago

          Ok, interesting. So no foam on top, no tape on bottom, just wrap. Is press n seal special or do you think any food wrap is as good? I’m from Denmark, so it’s not a regular shelf item for me.

          How many layers do you use? And how tight do you make them?

          • wowthatsawful@lemm.eeEnglish
            2·
            1 year ago

            ahh gotcha. no, press n seal is different from regular food wrap. it has a light adhesive quality to it. it’s also thicker and has a slight texture. so it’s just one layer on the bottom and one on the top with the adhesive side against the pcb. the press n seal can be staticky, so I wore an anti-static bracelet and grounded it to be extra safe I didn’t shock the board. you press those two layers together and make it as flush as you can get it. that creates a pretty tight seal. then you push the switches and stabilizers through.

            • humanplayer2@lemmy.mlEnglish
              2·
              1 year ago

              Ah, I see. I’ll see if I can order some at a reasonable price. Thanks for the clarification and the details!

    • UniversalFlamingo@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      1·
      1 year ago

      I’ve got some coming in from Ali along with a couple of others that were mentioned. They won’t arrive for a bit though.

  • Render@sh.itjust.works
    1·
    1 year ago

    I bought Ink Black V2s and Milky yellows to make a frankenswitch. I used the Ink bottom, ink stem, milky top. Lubed with Krytox 205g0 and used two Deskeys films per switch.

    I placed poron switch pads on the PCB.

    Thoccy on bottom and top sound. Top sound is slightly more thoccy because of the milky top.

    Maybe UHMWPE stems will make the sound more thoccy.

    I need to try some sort of case mod. My current case is acrylic.

    • UniversalFlamingo@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      1·
      1 year ago

      Yeah, I like it. I’ll be playing with the acoustics for a while to get the sound I want. The wireless is solid, no drops or other headaches. I had an issue with it loosing my custom config a couple of times on the default firmware but not since flashing the latest. My chief complaint is that it doesn’t support qmk. I’m not clear on why, though, since it supports Via and I thought qmk was a prerequisite for it.