Imagine you're in southeast Cape York Peninsula, heading north from the tiny town of Laura—population 133. You're in a dusty four-wheel drive, bumping over a rough gravel road to a remote location known only to traditional Kuku Warra custodians.

Imagine you’re in southeast Cape York Peninsula, heading north from the tiny town of Laura—population 133. You’re in a dusty four-wheel drive, bumping over a rough gravel road to a remote location known only to traditional Kuku Warra custodians.

All too soon, the road becomes a station track winding through the woodland, leaving signs of civilization behind.