Oh yeah, as a hobby, it’s absolutely fun. I like tinkering with all kinds of things.

My point was to just be careful since it’s not necessarily going to be worth the expense and time.

I’ve been considering getting a breaker-level power monitor to watch for spikes. It’s a bit more expensive (hundreds of dollars), but it measures the types of things I’m interested in. My kid flipped on our gutter heaters (I never use them) and shot our electricity bill to the moon for a couple months until I noticed. If I had a home energy monitor, I would’ve noticed a crazy energy spike and that might have paid for itself.

Cool!

Just be cautious that you don’t over-optimize for power. I ran around my house w/ a Kill-a-watt meter checking everything and made some tweaks, and I still don’t think it has paid for itself since power costs are so low here ($0.12-0.13/kWh, so 10Wh 24/7 < $1/month), and some of the things I tried doing made my life kinda suck. So I backed off a bit and found a good middleground where I got 80% of the benefit w/o any real compromises.

For example, here’s what I ended up with:

• put desktop to sleep - power draw is negligible, and I don’t need to keep typing my FDE password to use it
• “upgraded” NAS from old 2009 HW to my old gaming PC HW (1st gen Ryzen) - cut power draw in half, but I had to buy some RAM; will take years to pay off w/ electricity savings, but it has much better performance in the meantime
• turn off work laptop - was drawing ~20W; I WFH MThF, so I leave it on Th night for convenience, but have it sleep M-W and turn it off Friday

I could probably cut a bit more if I really try, but that would be annoying.

Frosties are pretty good, but there are better options than baconator, such as Ultimate Bacon Cheeseburger from Jack in the Box or pretty much anything w/ bacon at Carl’s Jr. If you want ice cream w/ it, Culver’s is way better than frosties IMO, and their burgers are pretty good as well.

I only go to Wendy’s if I really want a frosty, and I usually don’t get anything else w/ it (maybe some fries to dip in the frosty).

Um, look at the URL for it. Or the FastAPI Github org. Or the top contributors to FastAPI.

He’s the creator and BDFL of the project.

For reference, @tiangolo wrote FastAPI.

And it’s especially important here because that’s the creator of FastAPI…

For me, Nintendo is a pretty good deal. We have <20 games, and they’re all something my kids can play, loan to a friend, etc. Each game cost ~$40, which is high, but not crazy if I’m only buying a few per year. My kids will play the same game for hundreds of hours (Smash Brothers is incredibly good value).

Most of my gaming is on PC though. I spend way more on games per year, but I also get each game for much less. I rarely play past rolling credits, so I go through a lot of games.

Value per dollar spent is pretty comparable for us, if not cheaper for the Switch, if we look at play time. I have three kids that fight over the Switch, and they take turns playing the same game on their own profile, so we immediately get like 3x the value for any game we buy.

If I didn’t have kids, I wouldn’t have a Switch because it wouldn’t provide enough value.

Best Buy

Definitely not, unless you absolutely need something same day. Their selection and prices suck, though they do price match.

My preference is:

1. Direct from the manufacturer
2. B&H Photo
3. Newegg
4. Amazon
5. EBay - used, if it’s a really good deal

If the keyboard is the only problem, get a good mechanical one. As others have said, Keychron is good if you want a pretty good keyboard for a pretty good price, though there are some other decent options around $50. Be careful though, because there’s a lot of crap out there.

Hmm, don’t seem to have it on my GrapheneOS phone. :)

And the content I want to watch (and used to watch) would be.

Culver’s is fantastic, but Wendy’s? Really?

Eh, Burger King is one of the less bad fast food burgers out there IMO. The Whopper and double cheeseburger are usually what I go for, and they don’t have the same fake taste as McDonald’s.

They’re definitely okay. I’d much rather go to a local burger shop or Five Guys, but Burger King is acceptable in a pinch. Carl’s Junior is better though.

I just see a truck pulling America out of a plane.

Awesome! Protect yourselves you beautiful queer people.

Same, but openSUSE. Tumbleweed on my desktop and laptop, Leap on my servers.

And yeah, if I need to babysit something, I’ll use an alternative. I’ll upgrade when I’m ready to, which is usually over holidays when I’m bored and looking for a project.

Constant maintenance? What’s that?

Here’s my setup:

• OS - openSUSE Leap - I upgrade when I remember
• software - Docker images in a docker compose file; upgrading is a simple docker command, and I’ll only do it if I need something in the update
• hardware - old desktop; I’ll upgrade when I have extra hardware

I honestly don’t think about it. I run updates when I get to it (every month or so), and I’ll do an OS upgrade a little while after a new release is available (every couple years?). Software gets updated periodically if I’m bored and avoiding more important things. And I upgrade one thing at a time, so I don’t end up with everything breaking at once. BTRFS snapshots means I can always roll back if I break something.

I don’t even know what TrueCharts is. Maybe that’s your issue?

I use my old desktop. It’s totally overkill, but it’s also free since I was going to throw it out instead.

It might be, idk, my coworker set it up. It’s definitely a distilled model though. I did hope it would do a better job on such a small input though.

I asked an LLM to generate tests for a 10 line function with two arguments, no if branches, and only one library function call. It’s just a for loop and some math. Somehow it invented arguments, and the ones that actually ran didn’t even pass. It made like 5 test functions, spat out paragraphs explaining nonsense, and it still didn’t work.

This was one of the smaller deepseek models, so perhaps a fancier model would do better.

I’m still messing with it, so maybe I’ll find some tasks it’s good at.

a good smartphone that is 2-3 years old is good enough for good imaging and video capture anyway.

And it’ll get incredibly good battery life if it’s not connecting to cell towers. So even if the battery has degraded a bit, it’ll probably be more than sufficient.