If you are new then consider printing in PLA instead, its the easiest material to print with. After PLA, I think PETG is the most popular one, but PETG is stringing king especially if not dried. If you need higher temp resistance and some flexibility ABS is good, but not the easiest to print.
Your print looks good, its only stringing that should be fixed. So yeah, your settings are not off by a lot, dont expect crazzy changes. Calibration should fix your problem, and its not a bad idea to do a quick calibration prints when switching to new filament.
Deffo calibrate your printer if you havent already. Temp tower, flow tower, retraction test. Sometimes its enough to change flow by 1-2%, or temp by 5C, or maybe just increasing travel speed (check travel speed, it could be low at default, bump up to 150 mm/s to help with stringing).
Combing can help, but it can also be a pain especially when printing many thin walls.
Drying filament is always good, but keep in mind that some filaments are just bad with stringing. Also you are looking for optimal settings, dont mess up everything else just to remove stringing. Some level of stringing should be acceptable (its easy to remove)
My apologies, I said ABS, but I meant PLA. Thanks for the suggestions again. The calibration settings would be on the printer itself, not the software, correct?
There are some steps to do on the printer, but your print looks good enough so you can skip them.
For example, temp tower can be a hollow cube that you start printing at 210C and then decrease temp by 5 C every 10 mm of height. Dont go with too low temp to not cause a clog. Then you can inspect what height looks best and also you can try to brake it down with hands to see how good good layer adhesion is. Everything can be done in slicer. If you are using cura, there is preinstalled plugin called ChangeAtZ where you can set tenp change at specific height.
Flow calibration is simmilar, just change flow from 95% to 105% instead of temp.
Retraction test uses 2 pillars and you change retraction distance from 1-6 mm (for bowden) or 1-3 mm (for direct drive extruder). And you can see what height gives less stringing. You can also tune retraction speed.
Check links I posted before. You can download some tests or use whatever suits you
If you are new then consider printing in PLA instead, its the easiest material to print with. After PLA, I think PETG is the most popular one, but PETG is stringing king especially if not dried. If you need higher temp resistance and some flexibility ABS is good, but not the easiest to print.
Your print looks good, its only stringing that should be fixed. So yeah, your settings are not off by a lot, dont expect crazzy changes. Calibration should fix your problem, and its not a bad idea to do a quick calibration prints when switching to new filament.
Deffo calibrate your printer if you havent already. Temp tower, flow tower, retraction test. Sometimes its enough to change flow by 1-2%, or temp by 5C, or maybe just increasing travel speed (check travel speed, it could be low at default, bump up to 150 mm/s to help with stringing).
Combing can help, but it can also be a pain especially when printing many thin walls.
Drying filament is always good, but keep in mind that some filaments are just bad with stringing. Also you are looking for optimal settings, dont mess up everything else just to remove stringing. Some level of stringing should be acceptable (its easy to remove)
Many people recommend these 2 guides:
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
My apologies, I said ABS, but I meant PLA. Thanks for the suggestions again. The calibration settings would be on the printer itself, not the software, correct?
There are some steps to do on the printer, but your print looks good enough so you can skip them.
For example, temp tower can be a hollow cube that you start printing at 210C and then decrease temp by 5 C every 10 mm of height. Dont go with too low temp to not cause a clog. Then you can inspect what height looks best and also you can try to brake it down with hands to see how good good layer adhesion is. Everything can be done in slicer. If you are using cura, there is preinstalled plugin called ChangeAtZ where you can set tenp change at specific height.
Flow calibration is simmilar, just change flow from 95% to 105% instead of temp.
Retraction test uses 2 pillars and you change retraction distance from 1-6 mm (for bowden) or 1-3 mm (for direct drive extruder). And you can see what height gives less stringing. You can also tune retraction speed.
Check links I posted before. You can download some tests or use whatever suits you