It sounds like the gear is slipping are you using a single or dual gear extruder?
Dual is recommended imo. But some things you can look at are if the tension on the extruder gear is too high or low it can cause chatter or slippage. Also high friction on the spool can cause slippage so make sure the filament spool spins with little effort.
If none of this works look at the gear it’s possible it’s just warn out and not catching the filament.
I am using 200deg, which is between the 180 and 210deg said on the spool. I am using this PLA filament . I don’t know what it means to check tension (sorry I am a noob), or how to check if my nozzle’s clogged. I was able to insert the needle that came with my printer into the nozzle halfway however.
Temperature: Bump your temperature up 10 degrees and see if it changes, if you have a thermometer check if your heating block to see if it is actually at the set temp.
Though looking at your video again, it looks like it’s gripping, but the wheel isn’t spinning. This is what’s leading me to something not allowing it to pass through the nozzle. If that wheel isn’t spinning, then it’s probably not an inability to grip but the stepper motor skipping because it can’t push the filament through the nozzle for some reason.
If your temps seem to be calibrated properly next step I would take is to remove your nozzle (while hot) and see if filament is able to be pushed through.
I looked through the article and I think I have a direct printer head. I tried changing the temperature even 20deg, and nothing changed. The wheel would spin properly when I tried it without filament. I unfortunately don’t have a thermometer. I will try and change the nozzle if I have to, but it looks like a complex procedure and I don’t want to mess anything up.
Changing the nozzle isn’t hard, you just have to be careful. All you have to do is heat up the hotend, hold the heater block with a wrench, and use another wrench to unscrew the nozzle (you might’ve gotten one with your printer for this). Holding the heater block is mostly just important imo so that the torque doesn’t misalign other parts in your hotend. Remember that if you’re facing down, then screwing directions are reversed. So you would unscrew the nozzle clockwise (righty loosey).
After you get the nozzle off, I would push some filament through the top to get your clog out. Then you can put the same nozzle back on. The main time you would need to replace it is if you’re consistently having issues even after that or you’ve been using it for a while (the hole gets worn through bigger over time). You can also look into doing a ‘cold pull’ to get out clogs.
Of course your extruder would still work fine if you didn’t have anything in it because it’s only jamming due to trying to push something through a clog :p You have 2 zones in a hotend: the cold end (radiator) and hot end (heater block). Sometimes a clog can happen because of heat creep, where a bit of hot melted filament gets retracted up into the cold zone and resolidifies there, blocking the passage.
I don’t know exactly how it works or your printer, but with my direct drive Artillery printer (Volcano style hotend) you just heat it up and then loosen the nozzle with a 7mm socket. When reassembling, screw the new nozzle in and tighten it while hot to make a good seal. You’re apprehensive about doing something new but nozzle changes are going to be a fairly regular thing for you in the future so you might as well learn the procedure now. Definitely Google around and look for guides/videos specifically for your printer or your style of hotend.
Try a socket as it’ll be less fiddly than a wrench and also has a lot of thermal mass so it won’t get too hot as you loosen the nozzle. I crack it loose with a 1/4" ratchet, then remove the ratchet from the socket and spin the socket and nozzle out by hand. You also don’t need to be super hot, maybe 180C or 190C and you can shut the heater off once it’s cracked loose (then turn it on when threading it back in). Gloves aren’t a bad idea either.
It sounds like the gear is slipping are you using a single or dual gear extruder?
Dual is recommended imo. But some things you can look at are if the tension on the extruder gear is too high or low it can cause chatter or slippage. Also high friction on the spool can cause slippage so make sure the filament spool spins with little effort.
If none of this works look at the gear it’s possible it’s just warn out and not catching the filament.
How do I inspect the gear? Also, I only got this printer a few weeks ago, so it shouldn’t be worn out already?
Then I would do three things next
I am using 200deg, which is between the 180 and 210deg said on the spool. I am using this PLA filament . I don’t know what it means to check tension (sorry I am a noob), or how to check if my nozzle’s clogged. I was able to insert the needle that came with my printer into the nozzle halfway however.
Temperature: Bump your temperature up 10 degrees and see if it changes, if you have a thermometer check if your heating block to see if it is actually at the set temp.
Tension: here’s a good article about it
https://filament2print.com/gb/blog/141_3d-printing-extrusion-systems.html
Though looking at your video again, it looks like it’s gripping, but the wheel isn’t spinning. This is what’s leading me to something not allowing it to pass through the nozzle. If that wheel isn’t spinning, then it’s probably not an inability to grip but the stepper motor skipping because it can’t push the filament through the nozzle for some reason.
If your temps seem to be calibrated properly next step I would take is to remove your nozzle (while hot) and see if filament is able to be pushed through.
I looked through the article and I think I have a direct printer head. I tried changing the temperature even 20deg, and nothing changed. The wheel would spin properly when I tried it without filament. I unfortunately don’t have a thermometer. I will try and change the nozzle if I have to, but it looks like a complex procedure and I don’t want to mess anything up.
Changing the nozzle isn’t hard, you just have to be careful. All you have to do is heat up the hotend, hold the heater block with a wrench, and use another wrench to unscrew the nozzle (you might’ve gotten one with your printer for this). Holding the heater block is mostly just important imo so that the torque doesn’t misalign other parts in your hotend. Remember that if you’re facing down, then screwing directions are reversed. So you would unscrew the nozzle clockwise (righty loosey).
After you get the nozzle off, I would push some filament through the top to get your clog out. Then you can put the same nozzle back on. The main time you would need to replace it is if you’re consistently having issues even after that or you’ve been using it for a while (the hole gets worn through bigger over time). You can also look into doing a ‘cold pull’ to get out clogs.
Of course your extruder would still work fine if you didn’t have anything in it because it’s only jamming due to trying to push something through a clog :p You have 2 zones in a hotend: the cold end (radiator) and hot end (heater block). Sometimes a clog can happen because of heat creep, where a bit of hot melted filament gets retracted up into the cold zone and resolidifies there, blocking the passage.
I don’t know exactly how it works or your printer, but with my direct drive Artillery printer (Volcano style hotend) you just heat it up and then loosen the nozzle with a 7mm socket. When reassembling, screw the new nozzle in and tighten it while hot to make a good seal. You’re apprehensive about doing something new but nozzle changes are going to be a fairly regular thing for you in the future so you might as well learn the procedure now. Definitely Google around and look for guides/videos specifically for your printer or your style of hotend.
I apparently need hot gloves, I tried without them but burnt my finger and possibly graunched the spanner.
Try a socket as it’ll be less fiddly than a wrench and also has a lot of thermal mass so it won’t get too hot as you loosen the nozzle. I crack it loose with a 1/4" ratchet, then remove the ratchet from the socket and spin the socket and nozzle out by hand. You also don’t need to be super hot, maybe 180C or 190C and you can shut the heater off once it’s cracked loose (then turn it on when threading it back in). Gloves aren’t a bad idea either.