If your printer is tuned well and is direct drive, there should be absolutely nothing in your way. Just print the parts separately and, if you want, in different colors. Happy printing!

Apologies for such a belated answer, but I would advise you to steer clear of Tinkercad. It is fairly limited in what it can do, and the skills you acquire there don’t really transfer to more advanced CAD software. If I were you, I’d start in Fusion 360, even though I don’t like it and use FreeCAD myself, because it’s beginner friendly and there are a lot of tutorials on how to use it and for what. I would also advise you to start with something simple, like a hook for example. It is a fairly steep learning curve, and there are quirks if you are making something for 3D printing specifically. If you want more info, don’t be afraid to DM me, I’ll try to set you on the right path. Cheers!

Thank you for the idea! Didn’t cross my mind but it does make sense.

You’re very much welcome!

Happy printing!

But what if I need only one and I need it today?

Never saw it before, does look similar though. But I guess there are only so many ways of making a thing fit inside another thing through a cutout.

I am more of a double sided tape guy, but you are very welcome to remix the model.

No not really. Just monotonic lines for me.

It has a 60°C short program. Fiberlogy PETG doesn’t warp at those temps.

That is why I regularly disassemble mine and toss them in the dishwasher to prevent mold and to clean them from dust and drinks.

Also, if it is completely stock, immediately upgrade your hotend to an all metal one. MicroSwiss makes drop in replacements. PTFE lined hotends are bad for longevity, as the PTFE tube degrades over time and if it ever gets overheated, it releases neurotoxins :)

You are asking the right questions.

1. If you mostly print PLA, it is better to keep your printer entirely unenclosed. PLA loves cooling. I kept my printer in a fairly dusty room and wiped it down from time to time and it still works. You will need to wipe the bed with a damp cloth before every print though, so that adhesion isn’t affected. If keeping it open is not an option, something with a removable door is a nice compromise.

2. It depends on how humid your area is. PLA doesn’t absorb water very quickly, so it should be fine to be kept in the same enclosure as the printer. Just keep an eye on it, if you get stringing or your print quality starts degrading, you may need to dry it. That can be achieved with a food dehydrator.

3. Due to it being a motion system with stepper motors, there are obviously vibrations and direction changes, which loosen things over time. I would recalibrate the bed every 5-10 prints or so, just to be safe. Other wear components like the v-wheels and the hotend should be checked every 50-100 print hours in my experience. Take this info with a grain of salt, your mileage may vary.

If you want more info on 3d printing, there are some very good YouTubers:

CNCKitchen

Made with layers

Maker’s Muse

Modbot

Teaching Tech

BV3D

Those are the ones off the top of my head, I hope someone can add more if I forgot someone.

FYI PLA can be digested due to being a natural plastic made from corn. So no microplastics stored inside your body.

If anyone is interested, the problem was due to packing material not being completely removed from under the printbed.

So, the PSU voltage switch is for setting input voltage. You might be running it on 110V instead of 230V, though unlikely but it doesn’t hurt to check.

Checking the y motor and endstop wiring I recommended because I had a similar problem on my x-axis when my motor wire and endstop wire came loose, where the motor was jittering and buzzing, but not moving.

The .cfg file is the configuration file for Klipper firmware, which is taylored for your printer. Since you said that your firmware issues got fixed I don’t think that’s it, but if nothing else, redownload and reinstall the .cfg file and if that does not help, reinstall klipper as a last resort. Do so only if nothing else helps.

If you need more help, I could help you through video chat. Just DM me.

Just in case, check the PSU Voltage. Check the plugs on the Y axis motor. Worst case, you might need to redownload the CFG file for your printer. Try that. Write again if none of that works.

What country are you located in?

So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that’s it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it “lacks” is a filament sensor (haven’t had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.

All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It’s not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.