I am becoming increasingly more appreciative of the fact that I have root access to “my” company provided work device.

99 what you did there…

(I know, IC isn’t valid Roman numeral representation of 99, but it was the only joke I could think of.)

Because it’s not an X at the end, it’s a Greek chi. Same with the arXiv preprint distribution — it’s “archive,” not are-ex-iv.

We used it to create women — I feel like you’re not really paying attention.

(/s…)

(…I think you may have gotten whooshed…)

Open, or standards-compliant local-only gear is the way to go for smart home stuff IMHO. Never had a problem with a Zigbee, Matter, or ESPHome device suddenly deciding it would stop working because manufacturer said so.

Yeah it’s missing the text, “…then the Planck X would be…” for the first two.

One of the best things about having an instant pot is the ease of making refried beans from scratch. They’re fairly low effort, and so so much better (not to mention cheaper).

And a big plastics shill, unfortunately.

For back-of-the-envelope or mental calculations, pi is often 3 or 10^(1/2).

The latter is better than 1% accurate, and has nice properties when doing order-of-magnitude/log space calculations in base 10.

My recollection is that the DVD included that library, but it’s been a while…

Cadence definitely the right place to start, since it shouldn’t break the bank.

I’d do some research on cadence if you haven’t already — you mentioned getting up hills in a higher gear to be faster while also keeping HR down. That’s definitely an option, but it can come at the expense of your legs (and worst case, knees).

Conventional wisdom today (as I understand) is that if you thrash your cardio, it’ll recover fast; thrash your legs, they’ll recover more slowly. So there tends to be a bias towards higher cadence (80-100rpm or so) for performance, with lower cadence useful for strength training.

Good luck! Cycling is a wonderful sport. Focus on the numbers and gadgets if you like, but at the end of the day remember to have fun :)

Nice! If you want a more quantitative way of comparing performance, a power meter is a great way. Average speed is affected by the route, the weather, etc., whereas power is much less influenced by these things (not entirely of course — I put out more power on hills, and temperature has an effect, etc.).

The only downside is they are really expensive, and for MTB I’m not sure what the options are.

For reference, ~800kcal in ~2hours should mean roughly 110-120W average power, but without a power meter that’s pretty much just a guess.

Have you encountered modern shifters? They’re fairly involved.

Electronic shifting, hydraulic brakes, liberal use of sealed cartridge bearings, carbon fiber parts requiring strict torque specs…these are definitely different than 70’s friction shift ten-speed bikes.

Or, they’re about to collect their paycheck from the photoshoot they just participated in.

…are Turing Complete, so what you can do with them is exactly equal.

But they’re only equal in the Turing complete sense, which (iirc) says nothing about performance or timing.

Yeah, though it looks like the cyan (which would be ~500nm) is actually false color UV image, judging by the same color scale as this https://www.nasa.gov/image-detail/5-3-2024_sdo_x1pt6_flare_131/

Awesome, thanks for the detailed answer!

Sawyer filter inline with a camelback is awesome. I’d just fill up my camelback in a stream using a (clean) handkerchief to get the large debris out and then let the filter do the rest.

Some numbers are missing…[due to] out of memory error.

The S7+ seems to have 6 or 8GB RAM, but the iPhone 7 only has 2, yet it seems the iPhone ran the test and the S7+ didn’t. I wonder if the iOS implementation is that much better, or Android isn’t set up with any swap, or…?