Impressive!

Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?

Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.

At the moment:

• You cannot ramp up and down, there is only a high mode
• Candl mode and biker strobe are just constantly on in high mode and the brightness cannot be changed
• Party strobe (low mode) and tactical strobe (high mode) work
• Lightning mode partially works (alternates between off and high mode at random intervals)

Yes I have installed the new multi-channel branch on all my TS10s. I suppose if you want to use the aux as a channel then you could prefer it to be brighter.

For myself, my aux leds are in high mode when in standby, and go to low mode when auto-lockout kicks in.

I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.

Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.

I am in! Thanks

Thanks. This is my first time trying it and I like the tint. Have you tried the warm one before? I also got one in cool white which is quite green and disgusting.

Thanks, and I am jealous of your pcb designing skills, I want to learn that one day.

Thank you. I hope so too, and high CRI!

I just saw this posted over at BLF (credits go to koef3 and Simon from Convoy).

The tint of that sample is at or above BBL. Fingers crossed for some rosy ones when they are actually released. Though I would not use an apheric lens to make a square beam out of one. And the reflector options for 5050 LEDS in the FW1A mean that it won’t be as throwy as a CULPM1 in a smooth reflector.

Thanks man, you inspire me to do these kind of mods. And of course, it would not have been possible without the adapter you designed.

That’s the correct order

Stupid me, you are right. I can’t tell “R” from “B” from the label on the actual board. I think I swapped all of mine on purpose because I wanted the sequence of colour change to go from outside to inside. Again, not that it matters, because none of mine are RGB lol.

Perfect soldering as expected. I can’t help it but my OCD has made me notice that you have the red and blue wires swapped on the aux board, not that it matters in this light.

Also is that moonlight level? The lowest few levels acted weird before you disabled dynamic underclocking. I have been doing some experiments myself, with dynamic unclocking enabled and disabled. I ended up making a new smoother ramp while keeping it enabled.

Btw, what happened to your anduril2 fork? It is no longer visible on GitHub, did you make it private?

I love them, but with the availability of the T1616 adapter, I feel like I need to push them all to the limit and have 3 colours for each light, even if the colours are the same lol.

Here is a video of it in action. And another.

Yea I don’t own one yet, but it should be around 5.6mm to 5.7mm.

I can try making a version with the LEDs closer to the 3535 cutout

That would be great if you could, thanks.

Awesome! Do you think if I can fit these RGB leds under an original FW1A reflector with the smaller opening (not the crappy FW1A Pro reflector)? If I can eventually find one that is.