I was printing a benchy on my monoprice select miniwitha a e3d v6 nockoff and I saw plastic ozzing around my hotend

  • charmed_electron@programming.dev
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    1 year ago

    In my experience the hole that the thermistor goes into isn’t in the path of the filament. So probably what’s happening is either the nozzle or the tube that screws into the other side of the heater block is loose, allowing melted plastic to escape through a place other than the tip of the nozzle.

    After you’ve cleaned it out, what I like to do before running filament through again is to turn the hot end on, let it come up to temp, then tighten the nozzle a bit more. The joint expands when heated so even if you’ve got it right at room temp it can still need tightening at the working temperature.

    • DOPdan@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      This is definitely the right answer, as I just had to deal with this after a nozzle change.

  • PeachMan
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    1 year ago

    That’s filament leaking out, if it’s coming through your thermistor that’s a sign that your thermistor might be loose or something? You might need to disassemble, clean, and reassemble your whole hot end.

    • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I feel like it shouldn’t be possible to have filament oozing out through the thermister port/cartridge slot.

      either it’s a funky design, or something is very wrong- OP… were you printing with red filament? The other thought I had was some sort of adhesive or thermal paste (which… is a bad idea. Most thermal paste decomposes at printing temps… but I’ve never seen red thermal paste.)

      • PeachMan
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        1 year ago

        Looking again, I feel like it’s NOT coming through the thermistor, it’s probably coming through the heat break and just dripping down onto the thermistor. That’s pretty common when your bowden tube isn’t seated properly. Either way, the thing to do is disassemble, clean, re-assemble. Probably put in a fresh bowden tube, too.

  • Tylerdurdon@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Blood of the ghosts inhabiting your place. You need to call a priest to have an exorcism and make sure your start wearing 3 full cloves of garlic around your neck until it is performed. Good luck, man. Stay strong.

  • MooseBoys@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Remove the rubber boot. Is it clean or covered in filament? My guess is, as others have said, the nozzle is loose. It should not be snug against the block but against the other feed pipe. If filament oozes out the sides of the threads, it might get pushed around the inside of the boot and come out the holes in the top.

    • remotelove@lemmy.ca
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      1 year ago

      It was likely a loose nozzle that wasn’t properly heat tightened.

      For those who don’t know, after screwing the nozzle in cold, crank the hotend up to max (or hotter than you ever plan to print by about 10C) and tighten the nozzle again. The thermal expansion is different between an aluminum heat block and a brass nozzle. The extra tightening while hot can overcome this problem.

      • MooseBoys@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        In my experience the issue is more commonly because the heat break is not threaded into the block far enough to begin with. What then happens is the nozzle bottoms out on the block before making contact with the heat break. You should think of the block as more of a coupler, and want the heat break and nozzle to press into each other within the block.

        • remotelove@lemmy.ca
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          1 year ago

          That is true, without a doubt. What I am saying is in addition to that.

          Aluminum will expand more than brass when heated. There will be a gap created between the nozzle and the heat break when heat is applied. The block is a coupler, yes, but it is also a shrink fitting by default.

          Thermal expansion is fun. ;)